Last December, and just after two months of reflection, the creator Virgil Abloh, announced in an interview with Dazed "the next end of streetwear", or at least his total questioning. A shame for those who have worked so much, but also a strong message, which he has just confirmed in a masterly way with Louis Vuitton , of which he has been the artistic director for four seasons now.
Let the Abloh community be reassured, it is more an opening than a break, at the dawn of a new decade and confirmed by the house: "Streetwear is a concept freely accepted and refused by Virgil Abloh With the current upheaval of dress codes, the idea that we have of streetwear requires a redefinition of the term itself. Today, streetwear refers to the clothes we wear and the way we wear them. ( with this collection) Virgil Abloh studies the anthropology of the costume always in movement and the reprogramming of traditional dress codes. "
And the least we can say is that the star designer of Parisian fashion week knows how to bluff us every time, and in a radically different way from the previous one. After the romanticism of Place Dauphine last summer, make way for Magritte- style surrealism, anticipated at the invitation, a clock whose second hand rotates counterclockwise. A first impression confirmed by the decor of the show, a simple dappled sky box, just disturbed by some oversized tools placed here and there, sculptures in reference to craftsmanship signed Claes Oldenburg, and two gaping openings in fluorescent orange, including one hosts the dj-set by Juan Atkins and Richard David, aka Cybotron, Detroit electro duo from the 80s, recomposed for the occasion.
"Heaven on Earth" , the collection lives up to its name: a joyful tribute to contemporary tailoring, where it should be from now on, milled for future generations, whose traditional codes are completely redesigned, shaken without ever to be offended, worked down to the smallest detail and in the rules of the art, renewing in one fell swoop the entire speech " streetwear ". Even the leather goods, so dear to the house, sees its great classics still jostled, this time in an incredible distortion adding to the surrealism of the whole. If the autumn-winter season 20-21, and probably the decade, promises to be that of the transition to a " neo tailoring " born from the fusion finally achieved and assumed between formal and streetwear, Virgil Abloh is this time the undisputed master .