Pierpaolo Piccioli works on the contamination of severe formality and artistic sensitivity to create a collection which conveys men's modern attitude. Including the performance of Fka Twigs and unveiling his collaborations with Inez &amp; Vinoodh, Onitsuka Tiger and Melanie Matranga.

&quot;With this collection I have tried to change the perception of what is a certain type of known tailoring, offering a new tailoring idea. By dismissing the idea of formalwear as uniform but making it more sensitive and romantic.&quot; Word of Pierpaolo Picciol, who for the new season of <a href="https://www.lofficielitalia.com/fashion-week/pfw-valentino-fall-winter-2019-2020">Valentino,</a>&nbsp; staged in <a href="https://www.lofficielitalia.com/fashion-week/paris-fashion-week-moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2020-2021">Paris,</a> has chosen to break down the barriers also in the creation of the show. The venue was in fact inspired by a concert hall: central and public semicircle stage to listen to Fka Twigs&#39;s poetic lyrics, wrapped in an immaculate cloud of crystals, while the models gently walked. Unexpected. &quot;How to go in a suit to a concert ... You have to change your perspective and take away some formalities from the conventional.&quot; And the catwalk is a story that turns in this direction. On the show&#39;s moodboard the portraits of Amoako Boafo dominate to tell a new idea of masculinity, free and not stereotyped. &quot;Self expression ... I think this is the approach of today&#39;s fashion. Right now there is this great debate about the end of streetwear and the return to a certain idea of formality.&quot; said the designer. &quot;I believe that streetwear is simply not finished. I think the formal has evolved by eliminating that bossy aspect that has always characterized it. I believe men have changed and we are freer to reveal our emotions. I believe it is all a game of perspectives at a time when these two worlds do not fight but coexist.&quot; A delicately modern man with flower buds in his hair. He wears flowers abstractly portrayed by the noble lens of the duo Inez and Vinoodh, ready to become print on crisp brocades or three-dimensional embroidery on ultralight cashmere cloths. Giving the rigor of men&#39;s tailoring a pinch of art. &quot;Mine is a romanticism that tells of a search for emotions, which reveals sensitivity&quot;, added the stylist. &quot;And it is a streetwear with a different flight: it is normal to customize and create a unique suit, the new approach is to apply the same thought to sport and urbanwear&quot;. Ferry it from uniforming to an element of uniqueness. As in large down jackets or urban coats born from assemblies of different fabrics. Or as in jackets that combine a face of refined boucl&eacute; with an eco-leather face, between the street and the atelier. A bit like the other two projects that dot the show: sneakers designed with four hands, in collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger, in which the macro logo of the brand stands out. And pieces of clothing decorated with the evocative works of Melanie Matranga: unconventional writings, posters and T-shirts, enlarged and transformed into decoration. Woven with a straw jacquard on a trench coat, embroidered in black on an immaculate cotton or carved tone on tone for a suit with simple lines. &quot;This artist uses words as messages of love ... They are proclamations that scream NEED, BAD LOVER or GOOD LOVER. Posters of modernity that enter the formal vocabulary shaped in a T-shirt,&quot; concluded Piccioli. At the end of the show they play with the preciousness of eveningwear and cross over into couture: they become three-dimensional embroidery constructed in the atelier, like a camouflage that seem to be sewn by the premi&egrave;res of the atelier. Unexpected, to create that contamination of which the designer speaks so much. For a barrier-free men.

Valentino, tailoring becomes romantic

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