Cecilie Bahnsen, Danish designer and creative director of the self-titled brand, makes her debut at Paris Fashion Week in a certainly not so-easy moment. Despite the hard times we're living, she excellently succeeds in making an entrance in the France’s fashion world and her Spring Summer 2021 collection brilliantly left its mark. Watching the short film presentation "The Summit ", the most striking thing is the slight melancholy air that lingers throughout the video and which perfectly describes the wandering of women in desolate lands, draped in bright dresses that contrast with the moody atmosphere of the windswept west coast of Jutland. It is a symbolic journey: an aimlessly wander or perhaps a wander with a very specific destination in mind but jealously kept secret.
Three references have opened the eyes, and the heart, of the designer and are the ideas behind the whole collection: a series of black and white photos by Hashimoto Shoko, in which blind women musicians are portrayed traveling around Japan; the installations by James Turrel that the glow (that’s where electric pink and glaring green comes from) and the otherworldly feeling and finally a painting by PS Krøyer in which two women walk on the beach recalling the moon reflecting in the sea in Denmark.
It is a moody and sensual collection, romantic and lonely, detailed but relaxed: Cecilie doesn't leave behind her traditions and remains faithful to the simple and graceful silhouettes that contrast the meticulous and beautiful hand-stiched details. For 2021 the desginer plays with layers: light organza overlays are worn over the dresses, tailoring and sculptural outerwear making them a key to this season's styling of the collection: the trademark of the brand, haute couture mixed with her modern Danish sensibility, is obviously present. Cecilie adds a new twist to her dresses: from sequin embroidery made in Switzerland, tied cut-out and a bow added to the iconic open-back dress to off-the-shoulderd balloon shape statement sleeve: every piece is a romantic, delicate, feminine, timeless and elegance sign of the new creative challenge that brand is starting.
Finally, two collaborations give the final touches: the first one, for tailored and sculptural outwear, is with Mackintosh that combine English's elegance with Bahnsen's candid idea of femininity, an example is the iconic trench coat re-interpreted with a trapeze silhouette and balloon sleeves; the second one for shoes, some friends of the Spanish brand Hereu collaborated in producing modern minimal slipper in a fabric made from waste plastic.
Another distinctive sign is the "zero waste" policy and the ethics of sustainability: 100% upcycled fabrics from previous collections (also in response to COVID-19 limitations) are used in the constant hope that everyone will be able to achieve minimal waste and an increase reuse of fabrics in the next future.