Man

Jil Sander and freedom of construction

The relaxing mood with a spontaneous and never banal aspect
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Since they started as Creative Director of the brand in 2017, Lucie and Luke Meier have carefully explored the typical minimalism of the maison, in architecture and in the purity of the lines. For the summer the duo gave the collection a mitigated fluidity, an ease in the rigid shirts with V-neck in Japanese cotton with an open neckline and variations on the djellaba theme. The oversized summer wool jackets had thin and notched lapels folded inwards, the lines are therefore dry and essential, but unexpected additions appear like straps surrounding the arms, a premium band worn under the jackets that intrigues. Imposing decadent fringes extended along the sides of the meshes, often long to the ground, as if they were a distinctive feature of this wardrobe of formal pieces with a clear oriental influence. The neutral palette of whites, blacks and sand, has burgundy color dots for the egg-shaped leather maxi coat, or for the floral print of a sleeveless top and the blue Klein that adorns the edge of the low-cut slippers or the long cotton sarong. The show concludes with an elegant pajama-look show featuring a multi-striped pattern trouser shirt or sarong-pants and the presence of large two-tone bags and boots with a treaded sole. The invitation to the Jil Sander show was accompanied by a bag full of what looked like great chocolate truffles, which were actually "seed bombs". Once watered, in a pot or in the ground, these seeds sprout almost immediately, giving life to natural green inflorescences spontaneously, just as the natural elegance of the man Jil Sander is spontaneous, whose garments with generous volumes suggest a renewed desire for easy luxury, which leaves rigidity and constraints aside

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