Around a hundred presentations outline the parallel narrative of Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027: from the debuts of Off-White, Paris Texas, and Sézane to the returns of Alanui, Gherardini, and La Perla, here are where fashion is observed up close, far from the catwalks.

From September 22nd to 28th, Milan Fashion Week, dedicated to the Spring/Summer 2027 women&#39;s collections, will feature, alongside the runway shows, 93 presentations on the official calendar of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. It&#39;s a format where detail prevails over effect and fabric is viewed from a hand&#39;s breadth away: Off-White, Paris Texas, Sézane, and Weekend Max Mara with Marie Louise Sciò make their debuts on the calendar; Alanui, Gherardini, and La Perla return, opening a new chapter in Milan Fashion Week. At Palazzo Morando, the Fashion Hub brings together the emerging generation.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Emporio Armani</h3>

The latest collection designed by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell&#39;Orco for Emporio Armani —starting next season, creative direction will be handed down to Dario Vitale —treats fabrics like surfaces transformed by time without consuming them. Salt crystals act as both treatment and embroidery, cold dyes create irregular hues, and linen mimics the patina of a worn garment. Seersucker creases, laser-cut velvet cracks, and organza layers, while lurex inserts and wet-look surfaces break up the overall opacity. At the Armani/Teatro on Via Bergognone, linens, impalpable silks, viscose, and jersey lighten the silhouettes.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Loro Piana</h3>

In the eighteenth-century reading room of the Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense , beneath the portrait of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria who commissioned it, Loro Piana presents a Spring/Summer 2027 collection titled &quot;Solutions For ,&quot; in which each piece responds to a specific occasion, from the late winter chill to a day on the green, from evening wear to a first weekend away from the city, to the seaside. Tweed coats and jackets give way to safari jackets, expedition shirts, and shorts, followed by crochet suits and silk pajamas, while the palette shifts from earth tones to sun-bleached minerals. Camel blazers, capes, and little black dresses, pared down to the essentials, elongate in layered silhouettes that rest on ballerina flats and low heels. Among the accessories , the Loom bag discovers a new format.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Off-White</h3>

After New York and Paris, Off - White arrives in Milan and returns to the question that marked its origins: &quot;Question Everything.&quot; With &quot;Off-White 10x10: Icons Reimagined,&quot; the brand entrusts ten of its codes to ten international creatives and presents the project at the Imaginary Palace on Via Orobia: ten rooms in which objects dialogue with materials, references, and traces of the creative process, accompanied by a program of talks and workshops. Renell Medrano transforms eyewear into a reflection on the gaze, Scott Mescudi returns the Out Of Office sneaker to its sporty roots, Ava Nirui turns the T-shirt into a community space, and Guillermo Andrade interprets denim as an archive of memory; Veneda Carter, Yuta Hosokawa, Bafic, Raul Lopez, Stéphane Ashpool, and A$AP Nast instead intervene on hoodies, bags, varsity jackets, and watches.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Brunello Cucinelli</h3>

Brunello Cucinelli starts from a belief: &quot;What matters is not perfection, it&#39;s harmony.&quot; The &quot;The Nature of Savoir-Faire&quot; collection, where savoir-faire is understood not only as an artisanal gesture but also in the ease with which a garment is worn. The result is a wardrobe of crossovers —raffia paired with organza, nautical stripes dotted with gold, workwear shapes softened by crochet—in which &quot;shirts borrow volumes and details from bomber jackets and trench coats&quot; and denim acquires &quot;couture value for everyday wear.&quot; Knitwear remains the center of gravity, woven with diagonal weaves reminiscent of Vienna straw and honeycomb nets shaped for structure, while crochet adds &quot;a hint of vanity.&quot; The palette alternates whites, ivories, and earthy neutrals—cardamom, corten, pecan—with flashes of red and blue, while nudes, wheat, and sunflowers evoke the light of a summer&#39;s day.

Camilla Cucinelli, Irina Shayk and Carolina Cucinelli (Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)

Barbara Ronchi (Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)

Brunelli Cucinelli and some models (Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)

Carolina Cucinelli, Kim Youjung, and Camilla Cucinelli (Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)

Mariacarla Boscono and Claudio Stecchi (Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Palmatic Studio</h3>

Palmatic Studio is the fashion and jewelry project founded in Rome in 2022 by Benedetta Mia Formilli Fendi , fourth generation of the family. For its debut at Milan Fashion Week , in the spaces of Villa Eugénie within the historic Palazzo Durini , the brand presents &quot;The Hours&quot; , a collection that opens the brand&#39;s previously nocturnal wardrobe to daytime. Alongside bodysuits, sheer fabrics, and drapes inspired by the decadent Rome painted by Lawrence Alma-Tadema, denim with eyelets and laces, shirts, and suits appear. J Palmatic jewelry, designed with Sylvia Colivicchi de Angelis , is incorporated into the construction of the garments, while a capsule collection of hand-embroidered T-shirts closes the story.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Brioni</h3>

Like the men&#39;s collection presented in June, &quot;La Donna Atelier,&quot; Brioni &#39;s women&#39;s bespoke service, also looks to Rome , starting with the color palette: white, shades of blue, Roman red, and touches of orange, complemented by iridescent silks. At the center is the Jardigan , a hybrid jacket-cardigan piece created in 1955 for the men&#39;s line, here reimagined in suede and nubuck with a more structured silhouette. Evening wear features embroidery and crystals applied by hand in the maison&#39;s ateliers, including a white jacket entirely covered in raised leaves.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Fabiana Filippi</h3>

The “Gesto – Architecture of the Hand” collection was born in Montecchio, just outside Orvieto , in Umbria, Fabiana Filippi &#39;s homeland, where wickerwork has been handed down for generations. In Milan, at Palazzo Barozzi , a large installation reproduces the weave, translating the precision and complexity of the artisanal gesture into the space. The collection reinterprets techniques and materials, transforming them into the structure of the garments. Raffia becomes jacquard, macramé meets poplin and tweed, while knitted outerwear, deconstructed suits, capes, bomber jackets, and mesh skirts define the silhouette. The story concludes with a couture gown in woven raffia.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Dsquared2</h3>

Dean and Dan Caten describe Dsquared2 &#39;s Spring/Summer 2027 collection as &quot;a fever dream of candles and neon, golden saints and bare skin,&quot; reminiscent of Baz Luhrmann&#39;s &quot;Romeo + Juliet,&quot; 1980s pop , and Italian religious iconography . For women , lingerie remains visible. Lace appears under bias-cut dresses, bras under miniskirt suits, and denim capri pants feature selvedge detailing at the waist that defines the thong. For men , the tailored construction is reversed, with raw-cut shorts revealing the lining, internal belts brought out, and boxer briefs that peek out over the low waist. Between the two lines runs a lime and pink tropical print with sacred hearts and old-school tattoos, while crosses, rosaries, and medallions become shoulder pads and pendants. The Roxy bag returns, presented with a cocktail party at the flagship store on Via Verri. On his feet, creepers and crocheted socks, which for the designers recall &quot;the innocence of the first communion dress&quot;.

For DoDo , &quot;Summer Memories&quot; is an opportunity to reconnect after the holidays and share memories of the beautiful season before returning to everyday life. At Camparino in Galleria , a Milanese aperitivo hotspot since 1915, the brand&#39;s jewels were displayed among the frescoes of the Bar di Passo, accompanied by a playlist by Milanese artist Lumiero. The exhibition began with the Maison&#39;s archives and culminated in new interpretations of its icons. Guests included Tina Kunakey , Yasmin Wijnaldum, Beatrice Vendramin, Marc Forne, and Anna dello Russo.

Gabriele Colangelo takes Giada to the neo-Brutalist hypogeum designed by James Stirling at Palazzo Citterio on Via Brera, where thirty looks parade around a column of 3,500 paper flowers. The starting point is Sambac jasmine , which arrived from Goa in 1688 as a gift from Peter II of Portugal to Cosimo III de&#39; Medici. The Grand Duke kept it in a greenhouse at Villa di Castello, prohibiting its cultivation elsewhere, and Francesco Redi used the flowers to flavor a secret chocolate. The flower returns in Zuleika Melluish &#39;s porcelain-inspired embroideries and in a palette of ivory-zinc, citrine yellow, champagne, desert pink, and wet earth. Calais lace and sheer fabrics lighten dark garments, hand-knotted two-tone silk fringes become skirts or stoles, and scaramazze pearls take on the shape of mugherino.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Sirivannavari</h3>

Jaipur, seen through the eyes of 1970s travelers, is the starting point for &quot;Soul of an Empire,&quot; Sirivannavari &#39;s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, designed by Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya of Thailand. Arches, stone inlays, and sun-bleached facades become silhouettes where masculine tailoring meets draping. The Iris jacket cites the waist, while the dhoti trouser is a hybrid of the Thai chong kraben. The palette ranges from creams to dusty pinks, interrupted by metallic surfaces and mirrored details. For men, long tunics in spicy tones. The prints are inspired by the creative director&#39;s woodcuts , while the embroideries reference her poems. Accessories include the Ira bag , the mini Rani , and jewelry inspired by palace murals.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Gianni Chiarini Florence</h3>

Gianni Chiarini Firenze has titled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection &quot;The Art of Preserving&quot; and builds on the imagery of a country pantry. The most evident work is on the Marcella , available in five versions, including crocheted straw strawberries, cross-stitch on leather, an unlined picnic basket, utility pockets, and a drawstring that transforms it from a tote to a bucket bag. While the Dua remains hand-woven, the new Maxime , in suede, debuts the Infinity Loop , a closure the brand is extending to other styles.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Des Phemmes</h3>

In &quot;Signum - Still Becoming,&quot; Des Phemmes reverses his relationship with ornamentation. Embroidery no longer rests on fabric, but alters its structure. It stretches it, cuts it, gathers it. From Alberto Burri, the brand takes its method, not its imagery, and speaks of &quot;a reference to his way of treating material.&quot; Fabrics are stitched together in plain sight, between hems and fraying. Organza veils denser surfaces, skirts are layered, buttons remain undone. Rigorous cuts hold the looks together. Each piece, however, retains the appearance of an unfinished project.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">The Pearl</h3>

After years of corporate changes culminating in insolvency in 2024, La Perla returns to Milan , more than three years after its last appearance at Fashion Week, with &quot;Collection #00,&quot; presented at the Kaufmann Repetto gallery on Via di Porta Tenaglia. The historic Bolognese fashion house—now owned by American entrepreneur Peter Kern, who, through Luxury Holding, rehired the workers involved in the long dispute—brings a sort of inventory to the city: new garments alongside archive designs re-executed in the Bologna atelier , where the masters still work with Leavers lace, Cornely embroidery, soutache, and macramé. The starting point remains Ada Masotti , known as the &quot;golden scissors,&quot; who founded the brand in 1954 with two sewing machines in her kitchen on Via Marsala. The collection also announces the birth of the La Perla Academy , starting in 2027, an apprenticeship in the atelier to avoid losing tailoring knowledge.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">The DoubleJ</h3>

At Palazzo Clerici, La DoubleJ creates a journey of light and sound, accompanied live by Friedrich Heinrich Kern&#39;s glass harmonica. It begins with &quot;Sisterhood of Light,&quot; the holiday capsule collection designed with Carolyn Murphy to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Swing dress, in store from November 5th, which features the model in seven versions. Color returns with the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, &quot;Feather Light,&quot; featuring chiffon, organza, and lace, with sleeves cut like wings and bias binding. The fitted dresses and butterfly-printed kaftans are counterbalanced by brocade coats, culottes, and fitted vests. The show closes with a veritable triumph of clutches embroidered with sequins and wooden beads.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Sézane</h3>

Sézane presents its &quot;Grande Collection&quot; in a private apartment. The brand, founded in 2013 by Morgane Sézalory, focuses on essentials, redesigned with larger volumes, and a wide range of materials: leather, knitwear, silk, linen, lace, and raffia. This season&#39;s new addition is leather goods , with a line of soft leather bags designed for everyday use.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Twinset</h3>

Twinset presented its new summer collection with an evening event at the Teatro Gerolamo , bringing together guests from the worlds of fashion and culture around a dinner created by chef Enrico Bartolini . The focus was on a selection of evening looks featuring flowing silhouettes, artisanal craftsmanship, draping, and contrasting textures. Laila Hasanovic wore a brown macramé lace dress, Alice Campello a champagne-colored double silk satin dress, Isabeli Fontana a rust-colored silk crêpon dress, and Melissa Satta a draped avocado green skirt paired with a white poplin shirt. All completed their looks with Chopard jewelry.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Antonio Riva</h3>

Antonio Riva Milano dedicates its &quot;The Velvet Night&quot; collection to the 1920s, reinterpreted through the imagery of period literature and cinema. For the Italian fashion house, it was a decade of transformation and spectacularity, in which women conquered new spaces of freedom and fashion became the language of this change. Silhouettes are long and fluid, embracing the body with natural ease. Fringes, a hallmark of those years, lend rhythm and lightness. At the heart of the collection are heavy velvets, mikado, and embroidered fabrics that alternate structure and softness, while layering adds depth. The palette, ranging from burgundy to black, powder pink to gold, creates a play of light and shadow. The result? A nocturnal and seductive elegance, crafted with exquisite details, that looks to tradition with a contemporary eye.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Alessandro Enriquez</h3>

Alessandro Enriquez looks to the Mediterranean as a shared cultural space, connecting Greece and Sicily through fashion, literature, and design. The “Olimpo d&#39;Amore” collection takes shape through references to mythology, images of Santorini, shells, stripes, and citations from Greek culture, translated into prints and graphic motifs. The silhouettes are contemporary, with capri pants, palazzo pants, and pencil or full skirts, while the evening dresses play with one-shoulder styles and column lines. White and blue give way to coral red, black, and yellow, along with fabrics developed with Monteoliveto , including a cotton bouclé tweed created for the collection. The same imagery is expressed in the design with “Azzurro,” the reinterpretation of Cappellini &#39;s Bac chair in a shade inspired by the Greek loulaki.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Nyssa</h3>

Nissa presents “Garden of Eden” at Rocco Forte The Carlton Milan and imagines the next spring season “as a secret garden, suspended between innocence and desire.” Silhouettes are elongated and drapes become fluid, with open backs and sensual slits. Lace, embroidery, and sequins add light and movement, while draped satins recall the reflections of water.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Malloni</h3>

Malloni presents &quot;Mémoire&quot; in the spaces of 10 Corso Como Café, transformed into an atelier structured in three acts: Creation, Experimentation, and Revelation. Heritage is dismantled and reassembled through open and re-sewn blazers, underwear hooks used as closures, petal-shaped pleats, basques, and 19th-century prints with a worn look. The palette plays on beige, cinnamon, and black, with accents of peacock blue.

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Santoni</h3>

The story of the “The Art of Encounter” collection begins with Santoni ’s five signatures, including the Arancio Santoni thread and the Goodyear Reverse construction. Next come the Papavero families, with sculptural flowers in nappa and suede, and the Odette family, recognizable by its hand-shaped padded leather knot. The Mira bag, the Weekender loafer, and the Off-Duty sneaker complete the collection.

Beyond the fashion shows, the presentations of Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027

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