For the designer's buzzy New York Fashion Week debut, the label looked to the life of the iconic photographer for artistic inspiration, resulting in a runway rife with effortlessly cool leather looks, fresh florals, and bold "butt-cleavage" pants.

In a dark, dramatically-lit Chelsea studio, French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his New York Fashion Week debut with the presentation of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection for his eponymous label. Known for his bold, body-forward looks, the young designer has amassed an impressive American following, with his work at home in the wardrobes of effortlessly cool street style enthusiasts and celebrities like Kendall Jenner, Troye Sivan, and Olivia Rodrigo alike.&nbsp;
De Saint Sernin cited the personal and artistic life of iconic American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe as a major influence, both in his personal journey as a queer artist as well as his professional journey as a budding designer navigating the notoriously difficult world of fashion. The label's Fall/Winter 2024 collection pays homage to Mapplethorpe through floral motifs and provocative leathers alike, exploring the meaning of fantasy in every sense of the word and celebrating the bold legacy of the influential photographer. All eyes were on Ludovic de Saint Sernin this season, with the designer's NYFW debut set to be the label's biggest show yet and the skyrocketing popularity of De Saint Sernin as both a designer and a young queer visionary, making the event one of NYFW's most anticipated shows of the season.&nbsp;
Ludovic de Saint Sernin kicked off the show with a presentation of innocence and purity&mdash;Mapplethorpe's famous floral motifs set against delicate, sheer organza tops. As an experimental collection dedicated to the journey of Mapplethorpe, inspiration was drawn from the earlier stages of the artist's life as well as his exploration of sexuality, club culture, and fantasy, tapping into sultry, provocative full leather looks as the line strays further and further away from innocence.&nbsp;
&ldquo;Mapplethorpe had the audacity to share his fantasy with the world and I think that&rsquo;s really powerful, because he helped a lot of people, including myself, to really be daring and embody every part of ourselves," de Saint Sernin said.&nbsp;
Leather was in no short supply on the Ludovic de Saint Sernin runway, present in the form of slinky black dresses, scanty bra tops, sweeping trench coats, eyelet-fly pants, and cross-body harnesses, with the gender-neutral collection increasing in its boldness as it progressed. In a daring move, the designer presented a pair of leather pants&mdash;and a pair of leather briefs&mdash;featuring a low-cut line in the back, prompting some to refer to the look as "butt-cleavage," a style that showcases de Saint Sernin's commitment to daring self-expression in all of its forms and the utmost respect the designer has for Mapplethorpe and his legacy. Closing the show, de Saint Sernin walked his own runway, sporting a sheer, organza tie-back top with a prominent floral pattern, marking the end of the show, but the very beginning of the designer's bold, fresh New York era.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin Explores Leather à la Robert Mapplethorpe

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