Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu celebrates his 20th anniversary at London Fashion Week with a women&#39;s Spring/Summer 2026 show under the colonnade of the British Museum.

To celebrate the maison&#39;s twentieth anniversary, Erdem Moralıoğlu returns to the magnificent colonnade of the British Museum in London as a solemn and symbolically charged setting to present the spring/summer 2026 collection. The dialogue between history, myth, and fashion was intertwined around the enigmatic figure of Hélène Smith , a late-19th-century Swiss medium who claimed to live parallel lives in her transvestites: French court lady, Indian princess, Martian traveler. Three incarnations that psychologist Théodore Flournoy called &quot;romantic cycles,&quot; oscillating between visionary genius and self-destructive delusion, which he divided into three acts of the collection: &quot;In the first, she thought she was part of Marie Antoinette&#39;s court. In the second, she believed she was an Indian princess. And in the third, she convinced herself she was an alien and even developed her own Martian language,&quot; he explains backstage. &quot;Look one was a sort of homage to Marie Antoinette, with this pannier structure. We had assembled all this turn-of-the-century lace by hand, creating a marvelous construction, but on top of it we superimposed the black embroidery of her invented alphabet.&quot;

The runway featured dresses that evoked the multiplicity of these identities: brocades and silks with aristocratic grace, silhouettes reworking the sari, and futuristic details with metallic highlights. Erdem&#39;s signature style? Romanticism filtered through sartorial and narrative rigor, but this time it was met with theatrical influences, reinforced by a palette that ranged from milky white to bolder shades of acid green and Rajasthani hues. In this intertwining of eras and identities, the collection marks a significant milestone for the house, raising the question of whether fashion should continue to be narrative or remain more rooted in the present.

ALL THE LOOKS FROM THE ERDEM SPRING SUMMER 2026 FASHION SHOW

Erdem 20 Years: A tribute to Hélène Smith with Marie Antoinette and the alien visions

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