For Spring/Summer 2027, creative director Veronica Leoni continues her radical quest for simplicity.

In the heart of New York, within the vast brick structure of the Terminal Warehouse, <a href="https://www.lofficiel.com/industry-trends/sadie-sink-incarne-la-confiance-du-jean-parfait-pour-calvin-klein" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Calvin Klein</a> continues its dialogue with the very essence of American minimalism. For Spring/Summer 2027, Veronica Leoni, Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection, delivers a rigorous, sensual interpretation, stripped of all things superfluous to better allow desire to surface. "Remove everything. What remains is desire," the designer said. A phrase that could serve as a manifesto for this collection, as each silhouette seems subject to the same act of subtraction. Calvin Klein himself turned minimalism towards the body, and Leoni extends this legacy by shifting it towards the woman who inhabits it. The garment no longer seeks to impose itself: instead, it accompanies, underlines, and embraces.
The collection returns to the house's fundamentals—the coat, the shirt, tailoring, trousers, the pencil skirt, and briefs—but subjects them to a new play on proportions. Lines lengthen, narrow, and come closer to the waist. The silhouette gains precision without ever losing its ease. A three-button cotton suit, fitted with the suppleness of a t-shirt, perfectly illustrates this tension between structure and freedom. Elsewhere, a jacket with broader shoulders offers a design conceived for layering.
This mastery of tailoring extends to the fabrics. Fine cotton and lightweight wool create clean, slender silhouettes, while slip dresses and t-shirt dresses, cut on the bias, move beyond their initial simplicity to take on the grandeur of true evening gowns. Sensuality emerges subtly, in the movement of the fabric and its close connection to the body.
Classic American sportswear, another pillar of the Calvin Klein vocabulary, is also at the forefront of the collection. Extra-fine silk knit T-shirts sit alongside color-block baseball shirts in cady silk crepe. Denim, leather, and laser-cut suede lend their texture and character, while a few touches of lingerie introduce an almost furtive intimacy.

The color palette, too, follows this logic of tension. Shades of black and white are countered by bursts of scarlet red, bright yellow, royal blue, cherry, and light lemon. A checkered pattern, inspired by Georgia O'Keeffe's wardrobe, occasionally disrupts the purity of the flat colors, situating the collection within a more artistic and personal narrative.
Even the accessories seem to have been subjected to this discipline of minimalism. Their function becomes their elegance. Metallic headbands hold hair with almost graphic precision; scarves drape naturally around the body before ending in a point. Bags play with volume: sometimes generous, structured, and streamlined, sometimes supple and relaxed. A new triangular shape, inspired by origami, introduces an unexpected geometry.
The venue for the show extended this vision even further. Built in 1891 according to the plans of George B. Mallory, the Terminal Warehouse belongs to that New York industrial architecture that combines monumentality and starkness. Its brick walls provided a raw backdrop for&nbsp;Leoni's silhouettes. Three floor sculptures by Walter De Maria ran alongside the catwalk, allowing models and spectators to move among them and transforming the space into an almost sculptural experience.
The soundtrack composed by Kid Harpoon contributed to this suspended atmosphere. Repetitive and sustained motifs welcomed the voices and worlds of Laurie Anderson and Solange, establishing a discreet, almost hypnotic pulse.

At Calvin Klein, Desire is the Ultimate Form of Minimalism

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