For Spring-Summer 2027, Gabriela Hearst makes Afghan craftsmanship, its memory and those who perpetuate it, the beating heart of a collection placed under the sign of transmission.

<p class="x1yc453h xma8rkl xgoqxah xutxfr x1fie51u xgyxj25 x1xobyvs x1elgs31 x1fv8qjw xcy5tzr x1ht4adc xnvauns x1c2l018 x14l7nz5 xuw7688 x1pjt2rx x160d6zm xrxpjvj" dir="ltr" data-assistant-stream-block="" data-assistant-stream-block-index="4" style="text-align: justify;"> &quot;Everything we do is women-centric.&quot; At <a href="https://www.lofficiel.com/industry-trends/gabriela-hearst-et-paul-smith-unissent-leurs-savoir-faire-dans-une-capsule-rare" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Gabriela Hearst</a> , this statement takes on a particular resonance this season. For Spring/Summer 2027, the designer turns her gaze to the women of Afghanistan and their history, marked by political, social, and cultural upheavals over the last century. From Queen Soraya Tarzi&#39;s commitment in the 1920s to the cosmopolitan Kabul of the 1960s, from the Hippie Trail to decades of war and transformation, ways of dressing have mirrored the country&#39;s metamorphoses. But behind the changing silhouettes remains a constant: the skills passed down, adapted, and preserved by women whose artisanal techniques constitute a form of living memory. <p class="x1yc453h xma8rkl xgoqxah xutxfr x1fie51u xgyxj25 x1xobyvs x1elgs31 x1fv8qjw xcy5tzr x1ht4adc xnvauns x1c2l018 x14l7nz5 xuw7688 x1pjt2rx x160d6zm xrxpjvj" dir="ltr" data-assistant-stream-block="" data-assistant-stream-block-index="5" style="text-align: justify;"> To bring this approach to life, <a href="https://www.lofficiel.com/fashion-week/gabriela-hearst-celebre-le-mythe-de-la-deesse-et-les-cycles-de-la-vie" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Gabriela Hearst</a> partnered with Turquoise Mountain, an organization that supports artisan communities in preserving traditional crafts such as weaving, embroidery, and miniature painting. Here, inspiration doesn&#39;t simply refer to a culture; it stems from direct exchange with those who keep it alive. Afghan craftswomen participated in the creation of pieces in the collection, transforming research into employment and heritage into contemporary material. &quot;Tradition is not something static,&quot; the collection seems to remind us: it exists because it is used, worn, reinvented, and passed on.

<p class="x1yc453h xma8rkl xgoqxah xutxfr x1fie51u xgyxj25 x1xobyvs x1elgs31 x1fv8qjw xcy5tzr x1ht4adc xnvauns x1c2l018 x14l7nz5 xuw7688 x1pjt2rx x160d6zm xrxpjvj" dir="ltr" data-assistant-stream-block="" data-assistant-stream-block-index="6" style="text-align: justify;"> The shisha motif, a mirror embroidery traditionally associated with protection against the evil eye, becomes one of the season&#39;s recurring themes. Small mirrors are inlaid in ivory wool from dormant stock, subtly illuminating trousers, jackets, and coats; they border the hem of an aloe linen skirt, appear in crocheted merino knits, and mingle, on a black top, with hand-painted miniatures depicting fragments of Afghan landscapes. These paintings, created in Afghanistan as part of a collaboration with Turquoise Mountain, find another function as buttons, protected by crystal quartz and set in sterling silver. At Hearst, ornamentation is never gratuitous: it carries a story, a belief, a purpose. <p class="x1yc453h xma8rkl xgoqxah xutxfr x1fie51u xgyxj25 x1xobyvs x1elgs31 x1fv8qjw xcy5tzr x1ht4adc xnvauns x1c2l018 x14l7nz5 xuw7688 x1pjt2rx x160d6zm xrxpjvj" dir="ltr" data-assistant-stream-block="" data-assistant-stream-block-index="7" style="text-align: justify;"> This philosophy permeates the entire wardrobe. Dormant ikat fabrics are assembled into patchworks and embellished with embroidery, while trench coats, cargo pants, and separate pieces in handwoven silk retain the unique touch of each artisan. Botanical dyes, sensitive to their environment, make each garment a material destined to evolve. Pleats, meanwhile, become architecture: on silk trench coats coated with a water-based natural resin, they recreate the technical effect of water-repellent nylon; on a long white dress, meticulous micro-pleats follow the contours of the body, each direction fixed by hand. Technique thus becomes a way of shaping the silhouette with almost mathematical precision.

<p class="x1yc453h xma8rkl xgoqxah xutxfr x1fie51u xgyxj25 x1xobyvs x1elgs31 x1fv8qjw xcy5tzr x1ht4adc xnvauns x1c2l018 x14l7nz5 xuw7688 x1pjt2rx x160d6zm xrxpjvj" dir="ltr" data-assistant-stream-block="" data-assistant-stream-block-index="8" style="text-align: justify;"> The world of Afghan textiles extends into the works of artist Sughra Hussainy, born in Afghanistan and trained at the Turquoise Mountain Institute in Kabul. Her interpretations of Suzani and Hazara textiles are transposed into hand-crocheted lace by the Bolivian cooperative Madres e Artisanas, and then featured on ready-to-wear clothing, quilting, bags, and shoes. The pomegranate, a national fruit associated with prosperity, abundance, and life, blossoms on evening wear. Hazara boksha, a fabric given to a woman during pivotal moments such as birth or marriage, inspires a broader reflection on what clothing and objects carry with us. Jewelry and accessories become portable wealth, personal memories, and symbolic currency. Quartz, lapis lazuli, and malachite compose beaded cords crafted by Turquoise Mountain artisans, while earrings and necklaces take the elongated form of sketches from the house&#39;s archives. <p class="x1yc453h xma8rkl xgoqxah xutxfr x1fie51u xgyxj25 x1xobyvs x1elgs31 x1fv8qjw xcy5tzr x1ht4adc xnvauns x1c2l018 x14l7nz5 xuw7688 x1pjt2rx x160d6zm xrxpjvj" dir="ltr" data-assistant-stream-block="" data-assistant-stream-block-index="9" style="text-align: justify;"> This exchange of skills between categories perhaps best encapsulates the spirit of the collection. The mirror motif moves from embroidery to crochet, from mesh to shoes; the Suzani and Hazara patterns migrate to leather and prints; macramé engages in a dialogue with knitwear. The cocoon silhouette, already introduced in the fall, returns in a quest for &quot;timelessness,&quot; while leather alternates between structure and fluidity, from glossy calfskin trousers to a burgundy bomber jacket crafted using the quilting technique. For the show, Afghan makeup artist Fara Homidi also drew inspiration from her country&#39;s beauty traditions. Everything thus converges on a single idea: to make a culture visible without freezing it, and to celebrate women not as mere muses, but as custodians, creators, and transmitters of a heritage. The &quot;22 million muses&quot; evoked by <a href="https://www.lofficiel.com/fashion-week/pfw-les-deesses-de-gabriela-hearst-defile-printemps-ete-2025" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Gabriela Hearst</a> then become less an image than a commitment: that of seeing beauty where history has often sought to impose silence.

In Gabriela Hearst's work, Afghan memory is stitched into the present.

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