An echo of the minimal-sexy period of the Gucci era and a desire to make casualwear subversive: Mr Ford is back

WOMEN COLLECTION

Tom Ford, who decided not to show during New York Fashion Week, sent a long press note to tell himself the new women&#39;s and men&#39;s collection for Fall-Winter 2021 &quot;It&#39;s hard for me to imagine what we would like to wear when the pandemic it will be over. Fashion, like the rest of our lives, has been in a kind of suspended animation. autumn 21 for me is about strength, power. is about recovering our lives.

I started drawing a few months ago thinking that for fall I would be in the mood for very extravagant and worked materials and finishes, in contrast to the simplicity of the sweatshirts we have lived in over the last year. In&nbsp;the end, I ended up taking the top halves of these handmade, almost couture pieces, and cutting them into jackets and tops, and putting them with jeans cut in a bleach graphic wash that I worked on. I removed the construction and layers of the evening dresses to end up with simple, yet very delicate and completely handmade. The slight deconstruction of luxury pieces is something I feel will be a legacy of the pandemic for a few seasons to come a&nbsp;more casual way to be extravagan with tailoring, I found myself streamlining and sharpening things. Undress to the point that sometimes only a jacket remains. this looks very cool if you&#39;re comfortable with your body and have the right under pieces - but for the most part, a pair of skin-tight tights or pants would give the same look while keeping things clean, stylish and real. I am a minimalist at heart and even when I design romantic collections, somehow they end up looking a bit glossy.

I love short skirts. I always have. being a kid in the 60s had that effect on me, I think. this season, I like the shortest of shorts. dangerously short skirts and the smallest of shorts. skinny pants, stirrup pants and leggings worn with sloppy, oversized mohair knitwear. large volume above, small and narrow below. sharp tailoring. huge oversized coats and some in feather-padded velvet or very soft leather. military details on the coats and gold buttons. chains. on shoes, bags, skirts and biker details on shorts and pants. stiletto pumps or stretch leather boots with the sharpest toes. earrings made of broken glass and mirror tied together with 18k gold wire. earrings with everything, but especially for the day and less for the night. there&#39;s a certain nod to the 60s and even the 80s - and I suppose a bit of edie sedgewick has made its way into the collection. while she is not new as a muse, she had a powerful sense of style that I think has always stayed with me. when I was young there was a commercial for women&#39;s underwear where a woman wearing only her underwear and a coat goes out into town. it was also a very edie sedgewick thing. and so I thought about how cool it would be to have some cashmere underwear that was actually made for it and worn with oversized coats.

Color is something I&#39;ve been drawn to more and more since moving to la a few years ago from a colder, more serious London. sugar pink, hot pink, lilac, lavender, cobalt, sunflower yellow and bare legs for winter really seem to make sense. at least a la. in the rest of the world a pair of black tights, a turtleneck and a military coat make the color seem plausible. Fierce, powerful and tough are words that resonate with me this season. I mean, who doesn&#39;t want to be tough right now? Especially after being trapped at home for a year. &quot;

About the men&#39;s collection:

&quot;After &nbsp; A year when I have often sat doing Zoom call without being fully dressed or wearing the same dirty jeans and the same shirt, I&#39;m ready to put on a dress again and actually leave my house. I always wore clothes. I feel comfortable with them. I love the fact that I don&#39;t have to think, when I get dressed, that the jacket matches the pants. Suits can be armor, but they can also make everyday activities feel like an event. I think it&#39;s time to get dressed again. not in a flamboyant and over the top way, but in a slightly more casual but luxurious way.

There&#39;s a nod to the 60s and even the 80s in the collection, and a little bit of &#39;the clash&#39; paul simonon, as he&#39;s been on the mood board multiple times this season. double or single breasted jackets. military coats. shorter pants worn with boots or a 60s moccasin. turtlenecks and flared trousers or mohair twill cut jeans complete this clean, slim silhouette. luxurious shearling, leathers and suede. the sweatshirt pieces remain and are mixed with more tailored pieces. as well as denim jeans in a new bleach stained wash. I feel this mix of casual pieces and dresses will be a legacy of the pandemic for a few seasons.

Velvet has long been one of my favorite fabrics. velvet for the day. velvet for the evening. I often wear a velvet jacket with jeans and boots, and I almost always wear a velvet jacket in the evening if I&#39;m going out. this season velvet sportswear is shown in different silhouettes and volumes; small and cropped in casual zipper quilted jackets or oversized in coats padded with feathers like cocoons. the bold floral prints on velvet and pinwheel cord are upbeat, light and full of promise for a return to the ability to get back out into the world.

The color palette is anchored to neutrals such as chalk white, ebony and warm browns - but is accented with shades of jade, caramel, acid yellow, purple, turquoise and dusty pink found in sportswear, mohair sweaters degrade inspired by the 60s and even in tailoring.

For a black-tie evening there are extravagant silk jacquard evening jackets worn with pale stockings and unbuttoned silk shirts. animal prints are a classic for me and we have interpreted them in evening jackets with metallic prints. As the trend of staying home longer, we have made pajamas and bathrobes in rich colors and patterns. If you have to stay at home, it might as well be fun. &quot;

&nbsp;

Tom Ford and the sexy casual for Autumn-Winter 2021

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