Fashion Week

The cursed poets of Givenchy in Florence

The man Claire Waight Keller signed for the first time
Reading time 2 minutes

In the gardens of Villa Palmieri in Florence, a place steeped in history and beauty, Givenchy stages a fashion show-event as a Pitti 96 guest designer. In the maze of plants and on the terrace overlooking the hills, where Boccaccio wrote the Decameron , the Givenchy man is a rebel rock poet, whose Parisian masculinity reaches the Florentine hills. Creative director Claire Waight Keller waited two years to present to the public what she defines as " Nouveau Glitch ", which is nothing but a fusion of contemporary aesthetics, Baudelaire's poetry and street-style that comes from Asia, the British 80's music of London (whose reference is precisely in the look of the models with the typical fringe from indie musicians). The silhouette breathes over 90s volumes, embracing shades of chiaroscuro both in the surfaces and in the narration, the palette is tinged with the pale shades of the rose, touches of cream for the monochrome suits, powder blue and red for the long anoraks, flanked by tones midnight blue, burgundy and gunmetal. The relaxed and squared lines with three buttons and double-breasted characterize the wide jackets; geometric or pinstripe prints, combined with wide or straight leg pants with double or chain belts at the waist. In a game between formal and informal, the expressive extravagance of maxi crêpe scarves to be worn without a shirt, alternates with technical jackets with glittering decorations, both new styles of Givenchy's easy eveningwear. The Gothic calligraphy of 'Fleurs du Mal' is fragmented to compose abstract prints, while a series of dubbed anoraks and parkas are in ultra-light technical fabric or velvety nylon. Great importance to the floral jacquard prints with a upholstery effect, which “conclude” the collection with overcoats and trousers with an iridescent and pixelated finish. Between elegance, sport and performance, accessories spring up to give unexpected touches: the wallet bracelet, the baroque-inspired jewel chains, the weekend bag, the leather trekking backpacks and many tri-color and non-colored sneakers, where even the limited edition made with Onitsuka Tiger. If Charles Baudelaire were still alive, today he would dress like this, marrying without hesitation a new world of relaxed elegance, not at all hype and absolutely cool.

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