Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week: Is It Still Relevant?

Fashion shows in New York are not the focus of many people's thoughts. Digital does not require presence, labels experiment with new forms of communication with their audience.
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Is New York Fashion Week Still Relevant? It's a question that has been on the minds of many people in the fashion industry since the last physical NYFW. Several magazines and publications have wondered if the event still had a purpose. It seems even designers aren't sure. Especially starting with the President of the Association of American Designers (CFDA) Tom Ford , who left New York for Los Angeles. Ford is the new president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, so his decision to quit in New York seemed like a betrayal for some board members, but Ford declined to discuss his decision, saying via a spokesperson that he was busy at work on the collection. This season, many designers have abandoned the CFDA calendar, brands such as Ralph Lauren , Mara Hoffman, Batsheva, Tanya Taylor and others have completely given up on a show or presentation. Even the new American fashion star Telfar has no plans to attend New York Fashion Week. Pyer Moss , one of the brands to watch ( Kamala Harris is already his fan) will not present until September. Joseph Altuzarra has moved to Paris since 2017 and has no plans to go back. Tommy Hilfiger will instead spin in London. Yet Rodarte has returned to present on the calendar after a break, Jason Wu continues to show, while other brands of the caliber of Coach, Eckhaus Latta and Collina Strada have transformed their shows into performances. Who knows what Marc Jacobs will do? Last year he brought Miley Cyrus on the catwalk to revitalize her media presence, while Imitation of Christ, a famous label in the 90s, has risen after years of oblivion to return to the catwalk. It's hard to keep up with who does what, while the euphoria for fashion week has been overshadowed by the growing surge of rumors that New York Fashion week is a local event, and that it's no longer sustainable to fly editors and professionals of the sector from all over the world to reach the big apple for 3 days, neither economically nor climatic. During the pandemic we also witnessed the loss of much loved fashion labels such as Zac Posen and Sies Marjan and the general feeling is anything but pomp and grandeur. We also miss the big names like Oscar de La Renta, or Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and so on. How to solve the growing lack of interest in the sector towards New York? Difficult to find an answer, the fashion show model certainly needs a revision now more than ever, and not only to save the fate of New York, but above all to review the actual role of a performance that costs a lot to brands, to the sector but which always capable of producing and increasing business. At least that's how it always has been. Thanks to the pandemic, the digital format has taken over and seems to bear fruit. Shop buyers are long gone from fashion shows. There are online buying systems, video appointments and virtual walk in models that parade only for private appointments. For the public there are so many drops of products that can be purchased immediately that the word "delivery" has been largely supplanted by "direct to consumer". We are moving increasingly towards a system where fashion houses create branding events that don't have to be tied to a fashion calendar or a city. And the dialogue with the public has fewer and fewer steps in between.

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