The designer unofficially kicked off New York Fashion Week with a line that recalled his own archive, reimagined for a contemporary wearer.

In recent years, Marc Jacobs' collections have taken a turn from the sleek, slinky silhouettes that fashion fans knew and loved from his '90s and early 2000s work&mdash;think <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2024-runway-show-review-images" target="_blank" rel="noopener">doll-inspired</a> '60s styles, <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion-week/marc-jacobs-fall-2025-fashion-week-runway-show-photos" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Victorian</a> silhouettes, and avant-garde sculptural pieces. But through it all, each collection has remained unmistakably Marc. Now, for the label's Fall/Winter 2026 collection, Jacobs turned his eye back in time, towards the very styles that shaped his own oeuvre as a designer, as reflected in his show notes (which referenced his own '90s era collections, as well as those by Prada and Helmut Lang. From his grungy Perry Ellis collection&mdash;which famously got him fired from the label&mdash;to his time at the helm of Louis Vuitton in the 2000s, the collection felt more restrained than previous seasons, to be sure, but it also reminded fashion fans exactly why Jacobs has become one of the most renowned American designers in history.&nbsp;
With plenty of razor-sharp lines, boxy double-breasted blazers, and low-waisted silhouettes, there was a certain element of '90s minimalism present, but through it all, the line refused to be boring or simple&mdash;instead, powerful shoulders, glittery detailing, and undeniably alluring sensuality persisted throughout, adding a visual interest just as powerful as the stream of nostalgia coursing through the collection.&nbsp;
In keeping with classic seasonal attire, the Fall/Winter 2026 collection drew on plenty of cold-weather classics&mdash;think plaid, wool, and high collars. In juxtaposition with an array of bright, lively colors like bubblegum pink, icy blue, bright crimson, and chartreuse, the more traditional looks could be seen in a new light. In classic Marc Jacobs fashion, though, the range of vivid hues didn't diminish the grungy undercurrent of the collection&mdash;rather, it enhanced it, with the understanding that the collection incorporated elements from across the designer's total body of work.&nbsp;
In sheer fabrics and silky styles, a sense of daring sensuality came alive, underpinned by sky-high leather boots and ever-so-slightly cropped silhouettes.
Powered by a deep study on memory and loss, the collection wasn't a blast from the past or a self-admiring nostalgia fest&mdash;it was a true reflection on how the past shapes the present, or in Jacobs' own words, "Who we are, what we create, what we leave behind, and what we carry forward."

Marc Jacobs Goes Back to the Basics for Fall/Winter 2026

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