 Virgil Abloh wears his paradise with Magrittian clouds and atelier macro objects. And it brings to the stage the menswear of the flagship maison of Lvmh, playing with the codes of businesswear but approaching them with a boyish gaze. Between distorted bags and suits dressed in clouds. «I don&#39;t want to reject certain rules of formal dress ... I simply want to give a different, special twist»

&quot;Don&#39;t let your daily work define you.&quot; Virgil Abloh&#39;s mantra, entrusted to the new seasonal vocabulary for the <a href="https://www.lofficielitalia.com/fashion-week/louis-vuitton-spring-summer-2020-sfilata">Louis Vuitton</a> fashion house is clear. It&#39;s businessman time, no more streetwear and surroundings. It is time for a new aesthetic formality. Choosing a disenchanted and not boring look on contemporary formal. &quot;Heaven on earth&quot;, heaven on earth, says the large LED that invites guests to the venue. The monumental space is a magrittian paradise of cerulean clouds decorated with macro objects stolen from the atelier and the craftsmen of the maison. Welcome to the Louis Vuitton world imagined by Abloh who changes course this season. On the other hand, in recent interviews he had said it: &quot;Streetwear is over&quot;. So the brand&#39;s autumn-winter homme is a change of course and perspective. &quot;I don&#39;t want to reject certain rules of formal dress ... I simply want to give a different, special twist,&quot; explained the designer, at his fourth collection for the maison. Who has chosen a live soundtrack for the show: in the console, an ovoid porthole illuminated with yellow sun, there is the dee-jay Juan Atkins, who brought the Cybotron project to Paris. From the small door in the background, fiery with orange, the little desserts imagined by the American creative come out. Which reveals that he has chosen a boyish approach to tailoring. Using as a source of inspiration the moment in a teenager approaches the adult dress-code, made of shirts and dresses. A surreal and imaginative look. That unhinges boringly adult codes of seriousness to outline a new and innovative tailoring. Compared to the past, words such as dandies, casual friday, corporate find place in the vocabulary of the season. To explain a new way of looking at menswear. That seems to cut every bridge with a sporting past in favor of an impeccable future. In other words, the key to the season dominates Abloh&#39;s mantra: &laquo;Surrealism, when streetwear imitates formalwear and when life imitates art. Or viceversa&quot;. Et voil&aacute;, everything becomes a game poised between tradition and innovation. Starting from those macro objects that move the room: a pair of scissors, a wooden dressmaker&#39;s meter, a metal reverb, a spool. Everything has a comic book approach. So the suits are pretend serious and with a small construction. The coats are sectioned and reassembled in a flying puzzle game. The clothes explore unexpected shouted or degraded colors. The skin plays with accumulations of overlapping layers. And in the evening she dresses in ruffles and ruffles frou frou when she does not play with all-over celestial patterns, for dandies with a face covered with metallic masks. What about accessories? They follow the same path of surrealism. With the bags built in 3D and with distorted shapes to follow the curves of the body, with the padded and magnified monogram, with the LV surfaces mirrored or carved in twilight velvet, but also with the caskets that become rigid chests where to build precious secrets. No classic sneakers on the feet, disappeared from the catwalk. In favor of lace-ups contaminated by artistic interventions of fur armor, derby furrowed by harness of laces or Chelsea boot with a sporty vibe. To write the first chapter of the new male path started by the LVMH maison.

Louis Vuitton, surrealist travel for businessman and dandy

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