Fashion Week

Loewe and the sailing wandering poets

Jonathan Anderson's nomadic man seen through the dreamlike filter of art
Reading time 2 minutes

The reference to the degagé style of Cadaqués - a jewel hidden among the inlets of the Costa Brava, an alcove of artists and a paradise for all travelers - returns once again, widening the boundaries of inspiration also to the East in an imaginative journey. From Bangladesh: hand-embroidered white and red cotton; from Burkina Faso: dyed and hand woven indigo cloth; and from Japan: ultra-fine blue linen denim and perforated cotton gauze. Long tunics matched with striped linen trousers and scarf-terminated tunics in bright colors like fuchsia, dress-shirts with wide bermuda shorts in cotton, knitted under-knee knits, shirts with knotted edges at waist combined with bermuda with the same termination. Shiny leather or suède occupy an important part of the collection, with a suède sarong with boxy trousers, wide ankle-length trousers with removable leather flaps, overalls or trench in suede or tan-colored leather with or without a belt. The tailoring inside the Loewe house also returns, thanks to tuxedos in wool and unlined trench coats in raglan sleeves and two-button blazers with lapel lapels. To make it all more at ease than think of gladiator sandals, zebra moccasins, boat shoes and lace-up striped straw and canvas espadrilles that recall the intrinsically Spanish origins of the brand. Inevitable the Berlingo , the geometric shoulder bag, and the iconic Puzzle bag (woven with leather weaves) is revisited showing a deconstructed silhouette. Anderson stages a show that also interacts with the works of Hilary Lloyd, the works examine the various aspects of the natural and artificial world, capturing improvised or organized moments of the artist's life, video works with a sculptural presence and subliminal eroticism, from those more static up to those focused on the movement like Shirt , whose stroboscopic movement of a young man taking off a shirt was projected through monitor-totems on the set of the show at Maison De l'Unesco in Paris. A companion of this journey between the continents is the moon, which follows the Loewe man wherever he is directed, the notes of the song "Hey Moon" by John Maus echo in the air, revealing the dreamy and enigmatic relationship between man and moon, his only friend and ever-present reference. Even the amulets-jewels refer to the moon, they seem to be lunar disks, while marabou feathers sprout from organza lilies worn as earrings and brooches and faun fern. Harmonious ensembles of different textures and reading surfaces, for a collection that follows in the footsteps of a chic nomad tracing a path of energetic elegance, which does not bore.


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