Over 100 looks in the name of Karl Lagerfeld , who built the Fendi aesthetic for 54 years after collection. In the frame of the futuristic Powerlong museum in Shanghai, an sui generis happening has been staged to celebrate the past, the present but above all the future of Fendi, 12 years after the spectacular show on the Great Wall. The LVMH group brand is indeed back in the former Celeste empire with a great show-show that animated the rooms of the futuristic exhibition space opened last year. Combining the women's collection with the men's collection in the name of Karl Lagerfeld, who until his death last February, guided the creativity of womenswear. "I am happy to be here for this important event in China, 12 years after the fashion show on the Great Wall; this is the end of a cycle a tribute to an incredible talent like Karl's was," explained Silvia Venturini Fendi , the maison's creative soul. Who designed a tribute to the work of the German designer and his aesthetic legacy. Tribute punctuated on two fronts: on one side the ready-to-wear woman of the autumn-winter 2019/20, or the latest collection created by Kaiser Karl together with Silvia Venturini Fendi, who has always been his right arm on accessories. On the other, the ready-to-wear man of the same season, independently designed by Venturini Fendi, who had asked the German designer to collaborate as a guest artist in the collection. In total, a monumental runway order of over 100 looks with 15 new entries, created specifically for the Shanghai show. "This is the first time in the history of Fendi that men and women live on the same catwalk, but having had the privilege of collaborating with Karl even on the last menswear before his death was an important gift, which allowed us to explore a more tailoring universe of Fendi man ", explained Serge Brunschwig, president and CEO of the Roman brand. "With this show, we want to show China, where we are present with twenty outlets in about 12 cities, what Fendi is today, what it has become and what it will become." And what is Fendi today is the catwalk to tell it.
On the platform, a spiral of blinding neon immersed in a totalizing milky white, leads the people of the maison. Led by Timmy, a super (pop) star made in China, and punctuated by 102 characters in a flurry of beige shades and references to severe tailoring, calligraphic monograms, futuristic art incursions, micro and macro networks but also precious silks and sumptuously worked furs. To commemorate the long marriage with Karl, his collages with an artistic spirit, chosen for men's trench coats but also for women's coats or tomboy suits sported with rigid suitcases from old-time globe-trotters. Or the FF in the Karligrafo version, for the bomber jackets worn by her in the garçonne version, decorated with that monogram scribbled by the German designer. And then the chains, thin and precious, which become the ornament of the flat pleated skirts and of the small shirts of sinful bourgeois. On all the accessories. FFrame sock boots, baroque crystal brodé. Texans painted with embroidered initials. But above all the bags. Baguette in the first place, for her but also for him, in the version designed for four hands with Porter. And then the Peekaboo which becomes the maison's seal in a gender-based version. Up to the new Kan U, destined to enter the Olympus of the iconic Fendi bags of the future.
With the Chinese spotlights turned off, all the attention is now focused on Rome, where the label will be back on track with haute couture on July 4th. "It will be a very special collection, a tribute to the city of Rome and to Karl's work," added Brunschwig. "Without nostalgia, because it is the lesson that has left us this incredible talent: never look back but focus on today to imagine the beauty of the future". And how will the future, creative, of the fashion house, still shrouded in a thin veil of mystery after the death of the German designer? "As Karl taught us, we are in the present and our present is strong, very strong. Silvia worked with Karl 54 years, side by side, absorbing the thought of a great master. She has a direct, intense and profitable link with the internal creative studio. We continue and will continue with all the energy of Karl and Silvia, to tell the future of this great house ".