A thousand shades of femininity: from the eccentricity of Moschino, through the grit of Brognano, to the measured elegance of Jade

Marie Antoinette flew to Tokyo and became a Harajuku girl . Jeremy Scott , Creative Director of the maison, imagines a kitsch look of the late eighteenth century and reinterprets it in a Moschino key, obviously, for the 2020/21 winter season. The sumptuous princess dresses and their crinolines are back in a contemporary version because they are cut to length of miniskirts, under which cuissardes laced by satin ribbons with flared heels emerge. Shock and pastel colors together, red and pink, green and blue, a shower of gold brocade on denim, es tampe toile de Jouy . This typical 18th century motif has been used throughout the collection with the original faces of his courtiers transformed into characters such as the cult cartoon Lady Oscar. Jeremy Scott has extended his game through the iconography of the past adds a rock touch with leather bikers and with patches rich in colors and in the fabrics that recall the upholstery of the princely furniture. The finish with Gigi Hadid&#39;s cake dresses and 3D flower crinoline was a moment of pure visual fun.

Having abandoned the more sporty references, Brognano focuses on contemporary femininity. What does a woman want today? Energy, comfort and sensuality. Business woman jackets, yes, but paired with ankle-length pants with tulle hems, gritty suits in light blue or black lasered leather, and silk satin slip dresses in pastel colors that are worn over the shirt, and long tulle dresses transparent, the protagonist fabric, with ruff necks for the evening. Oversized squared coats with thin but structured turtlenecks. The shoulder bags are small in size and square, as are the tips of the shoes. A scenario that rethinks the 90s, oscillating between rigor and frivolity, from the leather suit with maxi bow to the romantic goth of tulle and silk of the tops with rouches bib. Simple, but effective, is the style of the new millennium.

Subtract to enrich, in a declaration of love, the most minimal elegance for the GIADA F / W 20/21 collection. Gabriele Colangelo, Creative Director of GIADA, imagines a woman who is feline in walking and delicate in appearing. The silhouette is elongated, the proportions are dry yet oversize. The clean lines, the sartorial quality, the continuous experimentation in the manufacturing and a poetic of the seasonality, make this brand the amplifier of a never forgotten saying &quot;less is (always) more&quot;. There are folds and drapes to soften the gait of long palzzo trousers, slats appear to sculpt bodices and hips, micro-tops and full skirts. Note the experimentation in the fabrics of the outerwear, made in a mix of alpaca and cashmere, shaved wool, wrinkled georgette, silk and nappa. Accessories with stones that line the marble, also for the tips of the shoes; raids design with bucket bags or with jewel handles. And a tribute to culture could not be missing. The parade, held inside the Braidense Library in Milan, contributed with a donation aimed at the restoration of the historical periodicals of the Library, a true historical heritage and cradle of the Milanese intelligentsia.

Day 2 Milan Fashion Week with Moschino, Brognano and Giada

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