Between explosive faux fur and trompe-l&#39;oeil tailoring, Rabanne revisits the 60s with audacity.

For <a href="https://www.lofficiel.com/fashion-week/pfw-le-quotidien-pas-si-quotidien-de-rabanne-defile-printemps-ete-2025" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rabanne</a> &#39;s Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection, Julien Dossena played on a subtle balance between classicism and eccentricity, as if he wanted to visually translate the idea of a demure appearance hiding an inner madness. Inspired by the 1960s, the wardrobe mixed bourgeois-style red faux fur with silver dresses with eccentric sequins, themselves evoking the texture of the fur. Layering and bursting effects ran through the collection: fur tails emerged from kilt skirts, coat tails appeared to split, while suits, worn by both men and women, played on trompe-l&#39;oeil. Julien Dossena wanted to move away from the mythical <a href="https://www.lofficiel.com/fashion/l-histoire-la-legendaire-robe-en-cotte-de-mailles-de-paris-hilton-en-2002" target="_blank" rel="noopener">chainmail</a> metal of Maison <a href="https://www.lofficiel.com/beaute/gigi-hadid-est-le-visage-du-parfum-million-gold-for-her-par-rabanne" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rabanne</a> to favor an exploration of textures and contrasts between a clean appearance and an inner richness . This play on materials culminated in a green-brown men&#39;s suit with silver-embroidered lapels, worn over a sequined turtleneck. Beauty-wise, the glamorous aesthetic of the sixties reigned supreme, with impeccably teased hair and eyes intensified by smoky eyeshadow and feline eyeliner, orchestrated by Diane Kendal, artistic director of Rabanne Beauty. By combining this homage to French icons like Brigitte Bardot and Catherine Deneuve with a radically modern approach to clothing, Julien Dossena reaffirms a fashion that is both sophisticated and subversive , where each piece seems to hide an unexpected sparkle—the House&#39;s signature.

At Rabanne, Julien Dossena dynamites sixties chic

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