No risk taking. For its fall-winter 2020-2021 haute couture collection, Chanel unveils some of its thirty silhouettes through a video of less than two minutes, photoshoot-style on a plain background, captured by Mikael Jansson . The watchword of this collection? Sophistication!
" I was thinking of a punk princess coming out of the Palace at dawn, " explains Virginie Viard . " With a taffeta dress, voluminous hair, feathers and lots of jewelry. This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than by Gabrielle Chanel. Karl went to the Palace, he accompanied these very sophisticated, very dressed, very eccentric women too ". If the spring-summer 2020 haute couture collection was placed under the aegis of the simplicity and the simplicity of the cloister of the Aubazine abbey, where Gabrielle Chanel had been placed as a child, the thirty looks of the fall-winter haute couture collection 2020-2021 are marked by a desire for opulence, shine, adornment too. Some are worn with jewelry from the Haute Joaillerie collections of the house on rue Cambon. " I like to work like this, going in contrast to what I did previously. I wanted complexity, sophistication ", specifies the artistic director.
On the program for this collection? Tones of black and anthracite gray sometimes light up with a flash of pink. Laces repainted and enriched with boleros rub shoulders with tweeds of ribbons streaked with silver; a tweed jacket with a fully smocked waist is worn over tapered boot pants, in black suede, the ultimate sign of ultra-rock romanticism. To make it, all the embroidery workshops of the house of Chanel , such as Métiers d'art Lesage and Montex , as well as Lemarié and Goossens , were used for precious tweeds embroidered with sequins, rhinestones, precious stones and of pearls. Diamond trims adorn ink black pantsuits. Short dresses with a marked waist and a corolla skirt stand alongside long dresses with a very Grand Siècle look, whose nobility, authority, stand out like so many heroines escaped from 19th century paintings. A feat that deserves to be highlighted in the middle of the post-Covid period.
© Mikael Jansson for Chanel