At his debut show as creative director of Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti presented a tribute to the brand&#39;s 1990s minimalism. Essential but not static.

Jil Sander&#39;s latest act, as well as Simone Bellotti &#39;s first, comes to life in the very place where creations are born. After an eight-year absence, the Spring/Summer 2026 women&#39;s and men&#39;s show took place in the brand&#39;s historic headquarters opposite the Sforza Castle. A space shrouded in white, it hosted a sinuous black runway, almost symbolic of a journey between past and present. The electronic beeps of Bochum Welt created a soundtrack that accompanied the visual exploration of a pure, contemporary aesthetic. Simone Bellotti, creative director of Jil Sander, demonstrated a desire for &quot;learning and discovery&quot; in his latest collection, exploring the potential of an aesthetic that challenges the boundaries of purity. Opening the show was Guinevere Van Seenus, the brand&#39;s spokesperson par excellence, who wore blue merino wool knitwear paired with a white pencil skirt, leggings, and pointed lace-ups. The collection emphasizes the concept of subtraction, a cornerstone of Sander&#39;s original philosophy, while also opening a reflection on the contrast between rigor and lightness, control and freedom. It&#39;s a subtle play of oppositions that defines the collection&#39;s vertical silhouette, composed of rigorous tailoring interspersed with pleats, cuts, and irregular hems that convey a sense of movement and transformation.

The intersection of womenswear and menswear in Simone Bellotti&#39;s debut collection is another distinctive feature of the collection. This dialogue is also reflected in the choice of materials: leather, double-faced wool, georgette, and technical fabrics, all perfectly crafted to lend an invisible (yet powerful) armor to the body. This contrast extends to the color palette, where neutrals and dusty pastels alternate with saturated hues, creating colorblocks and the right emotional tension that the collection conveys. There&#39;s no overly decorative presence, just a single print of small red poppies. Noteworthy accessories include the unconventional square-toed lace-ups and multifunctional bags, which highlight the attention to detail and the pursuit of uncompromising aesthetic functionality. While it may seem like a return to a renewed minimalism, the collection remains austere but not static. A compelling narrative of the Jil Sander woman and man.

Jil Sander's analysis of the past becomes the future by Simone Bellotti

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